SSB Ground Plane

There really is no need to drill holes in the bottom. Many SSB installs I have done were simply a 3 inch copper strap from the tuner to a single thru-hull with outstanding result. Start from there and you can modify as needed or if needed. Chuck

Counterpoise and radials are a pretty well tested HAM antenna component. I suggest you pick up a HAM Antenna book fromthe ARRL and it will have a formula for you to build your own for I'm sure less than that site. Being sold exclusively in the Lats N Atts store does little to add to their credibility either.

Also check out this article from ICOM
http://www.icomamerica.com/en/support/kb/Article.aspx?Download=20

Some additional good info at
http://id3431.securedata.net/siriuscyber/rfi.htm
Chuck

I have lost count of how many SSB installations I've done from scratch and how many more I have been called on to troubleshoot.

In many cases the problem is inadequate ground - or counterpoise system. I now exclusively install the KISS system on fibreglass or wood vessels. It works really well and typically takes 1/2 hour to install. I have not had a single unhappy customer and many of my customers are long term users of SSB radio who know what to expect.

Using tuned radials is a tried and tested principle that's been around since the early days of radio. All Carl has done is package it in an easy to install attractive form - and figure out how to compensate for the fact that tuned radials will detune each other when they are in close proximity. I could not build anything equivalent for the money if you count my (reasonable) hourly rate plus materials.

I've spent hours and hours crawling around the bilges of boats laying out copper foil and it has worked very well, but it costs a lot of money both in terms of the copper and my hours and the minute you've installed it, it starts corroding away.

I have never installed a dynaplate because of the fact that most installations I've worked on that had one were not working as well as I expect of an SSB radio. When I disconnect a dynaplate and install a KISS, I usually see an increase in performance.

Could you copy the KISS for less money? Only if you buy one first and take it apart and measure each radial and your time is worth nothing. Carl has taken the time to calculate the lengths of radials to compensate for detuning. I wouldn't know how to do that. It's better (and more honest) to buy one and use it.

I think a KISS counterpoise would be an excellent choice for the Flicka. If you're going ham, I recommend the ICOM IC-718 as a great little boat radio at a great price. If you need a bonafide marine radio, have a look at something like the IC-M710. I see no point in buying the 801/802. Very few people use the DSC, and most installations don't even have a DSC receive antenna. The "e-mail ready" part is an outright lie. I've done Pactor e-mail quite happily with several other radios with no problems.

Regards,

Owen Morgan
Magic, St Maarten

Hi again

Another thought. You're going to need an antenna for your Flicka too. An insulated backstay is costly and unecessary, but if you decide on that path, then do yourself a favour and put the lower insulator as low as possible to avoid the antenna wire from the tuner running in parallel with the lower uninsulated part of the backstay.

Instead of placing the lower insulator 7-8 feet off the deck, you can simply install a 7-8 foot length of PVC pipe (1/2" hot water pipe works fine) on the stay before you install the insulator.

It's obviously difficult to get a very long antenna on a Flicka. Most SSB whip antennas are 23 feet and that length will work just fine for a backstay too, so placing the upper insulator 23 feet off the deck will give your antenna adequate clearance from the masthead.

You could of course also install a 23 foot whip antenna, either a factory made one or a make one yourself from a fibreglass (not carbon fibre) fishing rod with a length of GTO-15 wire inside it. I've talked around the world on an antenna like that on my previous boat.

If you think a 23 foot whip on a 20 foot boat will look a bit excessive, you can also use a 23 foot length of stainless steel plastic insulated lifeline wire from one quarter of the boat to the masthead. Make a loop each end and simply tie it off top and bottom with rope.

At the lower end, a 3" Stainless steel bolt is swaged (nicopress/talurit) to the side of the loop, and the GTO-15 wire from the antenna tuner is attached to the bolt with an eye terminal and two nuts and then the connection is covered with adhesive lined heatshrink to protect it from corrosion. I use a 28 foot antenna built like this on our 36 foot ketch and performance is excellent with a SG-230 tuner and a KISS counterpoise. Mine is strung up between triatric stay and a deck padeye just ahead of the mizzen shrouds. Any difference in performance between Stainless Steel and copper in negligible in real life.

I prefer the SGC antenna tuners over the ICOMs for many reasons, but most importantly because they will work with any radio, so you're not tied to a specific brand if you replace your radio later. If you're going with a 100W ham radio instead of a 150W marine radio you can use the cheaper SG-237 as long as you're not doing Pactor. If you're going with a 150W radio or doing Pactor on a 100W radio, you'll need the SG-230 as the SG-237 is only rated 100W intermittent duty (voice SSB) and 40W continuous duty (Pactor). I do not recommend the ICOM ATH-4 tuner for marine installations, particularly not on short antennas. As far as range goes, the difference between 100W and 150W is not noticeable in real life.

PS. The IC-718 ham radio is easily modified to transmit on the marine bands, but it is illegal to do so except in an emergency. Many people use ham radios on the marine bands though. YMMV

73 de LA7QZ
Owen on Magic