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Adam

How important is a DC-powered LCD display?

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I'm planning the glass bridge for our new trawler, but am stuck on whether or not I should use a DC-powered LCD monitor. I'm 100% against so-called "marinized" displays; this is a fully enclosed pilothouse and the cost difference between a consumer monitor and the VEIs of the world would allow me to keep *two* consumer units shrink-wrapped below as backups and still save a bunch of money.

I'm going to put 4 displays at the helm. These will be 19" 4:3 in SXGA (1280x1024). DVI input is required. The idea of using monitors with external DC power bricks is appealing because it means I can avoid inverter/PSU loss when powering the displays. However, there are very few models made today with power bricks, and even fewer non-widescreen. The only one I have found is the Samsung 943BT ($245 street).

Another issue is the bezel size. If I mount the display with the bezel over the helm material I want something flat black and as narrow as possible, which is also hard to find. But consumers apparently are drawn to glossy. And don't get me started on integrated speakers...

If DC input is not an issue there are a number of additional options, including "eco" units from NEC (EA190M-BK and EA191M-BK; $200 and $260 respectively).

Any thoughts from Panbots would be most welcome. Thanks!

8 Replies

  • Some nice curtains will help.
    DC power is clearly not an issue as long as an engine is running. Neither is efficiency. An enclosed pilot house is not such a hostile environment, and offers plenty of room for displays, so durability is not the issue, obsolescence is. So go cheap. In fact, the only issue I see with so much eye-candy around is tearing myself away for a boring glance at the horizon. Oh, I forgot the curtains.

  • I solved the 'curtain' need by placing my nav display [a 24" dell monitor] high above line of sight for horizon where ambient light is no issue. As for 12 vs 110 I feel a 'bullet proof' 110 V supply is a necessity. Backup is no problem as inverters are dirt cheap. Brian

  • @bstrong: Thanks for your thoughts. Why do you feel a 110V power supply is a necessity? In the case of a DC powered monitor there is no power supply needed at all between the bus and the display. Isn't that one less thing to fail?

    Sandy, it's true that under way energy use is not an issue and I could turn off displays that are not in use. But as with all modern electronics, the units are just "sleeping" when off, so there will still be (inefficient) draw which may be relevant at anchor. You're probably right to target obsolescence. I guess something about doing DC-AC-DC conversion just rubs me the wrong way.

  • Re: DC-AC-DC conversion: I haven't done the math, but recent readings lead me to suspect that state-of-the-art inverters and appropriately-sized converters can give you efficiencies above 85%, which would in turn be more efficient than a long run of expensive DC cables. It's so close that it shouldn't matter as long as you've got a strong starting battery and can stand a hour or two of charging every day.

    Matters are a little different for a sailor with a 6 amp outboard!

  • If it's the bridge, it seems likely they are only used underway so efficiency is not a consideration. Your choices of 110v monitors is much larger than DC monitors, and they are so much cheaper. So I think the short answer to your question in your situation is "not at all".

    My suggestion would be to purchase 4 identical monitors, and another one or two as backup to tuck away with your spares. This will give you lots of flexibility when one of them dies. These are consumer products and it's likely than if one of them dies 18 months later, you won't be able to find the identical monitor to fit into the same space. Your spares will fit.

    A second suggestion is to build the main panel out of something very simple, like black formica surfaced plywood, rather than teak or some similar wood. The components in your glass bridge have the shortest life cycle of anything on your boat. Build it so that changing out components is not a major joinery problem. Black formica fits into most decors and is easy to work with and replace. Traditional boat woods like teak or mahogany are a much bigger challenge to match color, grain, etc.

  • Russ:

    good suggestions, and our Nordhavn already has a Formica helm. We definitely won't be changing that.

    Thanks!

    /afb

  • The 'necessity' of 110V is I guess better stated as convenience: coffee maker, toaster, coffee grinder, microwave, Foreman grill [great for lunch underway] on the flybridge, et al. I have no doubt most could be found as 12V but why bother. As for the inefficiency of 110/12 back and forth there is not much money there. I do think a lot about the efficiency of my diesels, props and all that impacts fuel efficiency - and where I buy my diesel. That is the area where the big money is. By just using the data sources on my iPhone I can save enough shopping diesel fuel to comfortably cover my 110 power vices.
    Just my opinion............Brian

  • A little 400 grit sand paper takes any glossy black plastic to nice looking flat matte finish, and I don't need to remind you carefully mask off prior to sanding. Little circles here. Also make sure your PC has a substantial power supply to support the displays. Bigger is better on a boat,